It wasn’t always a food hub. Many people have lost their lives on Race Course Road, one of the most prominent parts of Coimbatore.
Originally, it was exactly as its name suggests: a racecourse where thoroughbred horses once thundered across the track. As castes faded into history, the land gave way to quiet, tree-lined residential streets. Bungalows with spacious gardens and driveways define this area, where the city’s elite live.
In the late 1990s, the race course began to develop once again. The wide sidewalks made it a favorite among morning walkers and joggers, a reputation that is still strong. But as foot traffic increased, food related activities also increased. The number of eateries began to increase – first a few bakeries and juice shops, then restaurants, cafes and food stalls. Today, the race course is much more than just a fitness circuit. It has transformed into Coimbatore’s most vibrant food hub, offering everything from traditional Kongu dishes to experimental street food.
We set out to explore this culinary track. (We gained more calories than we expended while walking around the race course.)
Hibiscus Tea at Yes Yes Bakes
Hibiscus Tea at Yes Yes Bakes | Photo courtesy: Shibu Narayan
Our first stop is Yes Yes Bakes, a modest bakery that has stood the test of time. Located opposite the Horse and Jockey statue, it has been serving customers since 1999. Owner CR Sornam recalls the early days:
“When we started, the race course was quiet. There were only a few walkers, and most people came here for exercise, not for food. Our menu was simple – just tea, coffee and a few snacks. But over time, as more people gathered here, we expanded.”
Today, their menu is extensive, including everything from egg bonda, cutlets, paniyaram and Maggi noodles to unique drinks like hibiscus tea. Out of curiosity, we ordered a cup. It is very warm, deep red in color with a delicate floral scent, with a real hibiscus flower floating inside. The first sip is pleasant, although a little less sugar would have made it perfect.
Dragon Momos at Dappakara’s Momos Factory
Dragon Momos at Momos Factory in Dappakara. Photo courtesy: Shibu Narayan
A few steps away, we spot a stall with a strange name: Dappakarr’s Momos Factory. The name comes from owner Logeswaran R’s family background in box-making (“Dappakara” roughly translates to “box man” in Tamil). But his passion lies elsewhere: momos.
A former IT professional, Logeswaran left his job to start his own food business after being introduced to the world of authentic momos following a trip to Assam. He researched recipes for several months before starting a stall, which now has 75 varieties available.
We tried their Dragon Momos, made with whole wheat flour and filled with spicy chicken. Instead of the usual mayo, it’s served with a fiery garlic sauce – a bold move that pays off.
“When we started in 2017, momos were mostly found in high-end restaurants. We wanted to make them accessible, so we experimented with different flavors like Guntur Karam Momos (Andhra-style) and Malabar Chicken Momos (Kerala-style). The Race Course was an ideal location as it attracts people from all walks of life,” explains Logeswaran.
Mud Soufflé at Café Totaram
Mud Soufflé at Café Totaram | Photo courtesy: Shibu Narayan
Next, we step into Café Totaram, a warm, welcoming space decorated with paintings by Manto and quotes by Ismat Chughtai. A sign on the wall reads: “All sizes, colors, ages, cultures, aliens, religions and beliefs are safe here.”
This café is best known for its soufflé with ice cream, and we went for the chocolate soufflé with cold vanilla ice cream. The combination is divine, with the warm, fudgy soufflé melting into the ice cream, creating a rich, creamy flavor.
Founder Ranjana Singhal, who also runs On The Go and All Rise, says: “We started with On The Go in 2010. When I look back 15 years, Race Course was very different – there were fewer high-rise buildings and fewer dining options. Now, it is a thriving dining destination. The challenge for us now is to keep pace with the new generations, especially Gen Z and Gen Alpha. Despite the digital age, I saw Young people still like to flip through physical menus. It’s a learning curve, and we adapt accordingly.
Picchu Pota Kozhi in Valarmathi Mess
Picchu Pota Kozhi in Valarmathi Mess | Photo courtesy: Shibu Narayan
From European-style soufflé, we head to the place that serves pure Kongu food: Valarmathi Mess. Established in 1986, this no-frills eatery has been visited by everyone from college students to celebrities like F1 racer Narayan Karthikeyan and actor Vikram.
We order their signature Pichu Pota Kozhi, where tender, spicy chicken is slow cooked in freshly ground spices and roasted to perfection. It’s a dish full of deep, smoky, caramelized flavor.
Manager Sam, who has worked here for over a decade, says: “When we started, the Race Course was mostly residential. But as the area changed, so did we. Having been here since 1986, we have had the privilege of serving almost two generations of customers. Many of them come back not only for the taste but also for the nostalgia. For example, when the Law College was here, its students were regulars in our mess. Now Also, those alumni meet us, reminisce and share stories of the good old days.”
Ferrero Rocher Ice Cream at Richie Rich’s
Ferrero Rocher Ice Cream at Richie Rich’s | Photo courtesy: Shibu Narayan
To end our visit, we stop at Richie Rich’s, an ice cream parlor whose heritage dates back to 1977. Founder R. Revived on the race course by Dilip’s son Vaishnav D, the brand has stood the test of time.
We try the Ferrero Rocher ice cream with dark chocolate sauce – a hazelnut-infused delight, enhanced by a drizzle of bittersweet chocolate.
Although he complains of the increasing garbage disposal problem due to the proliferation of food joints and people, Vaishnav confirms that the race course has become the best hangout spot in the city.
