As electric ovens and OTGs have taken over modern kitchens, a small bakery in Madurai continues to operate amidst heat, fire and instinct. At Sri Muthu Easwaran Bakery and Sweets, the day begins by firing up the masonry oven, where glowing embers replace the timer, and the aroma of baking bread fills the narrow alley. Without preset controls for crispness or tenderness, each batch is judged based on skill, experience and the belief that this traditional method delivers a flavor that no modern equipment can match.
Standing in front of the glowing large brick oven, M Sakthivel, one of the owners, deftly places the marinated buns, breads and puffs inside using a long-handled shovel. He works without safety gloves, relying on experience gained over decades in the heat. Within minutes of the shaped dough going into the oven, a warm, familiar aroma begins to spread throughout the bakery.
Speaking about the use of a brick oven, Sakthivel says that it requires a specific skill, which is developed through experience. He told that the bakery has been working for 54 years. He says, “My father K. Mariyappan started it. I learned by watching and helping him and today my brother and I run the shop.”
Hot puffs cooked inside a brick oven at a bakery in Madurai. | Photo courtesy: G. statue
Every bakery item is made in-house – puffs, breads, macaroons, cookies and cakes – each requiring different baking times. “For example, puffs usually take about 20 minutes, but it depends on the outside temperature. If it’s cold outside, they take longer to bake.” He says that not only the time, but also the coals have to be adjusted for each product. Describing the capacity of the oven, he says that up to 200 puffs can be baked at the same time in the brick oven.
Comparing brick ovens with modern electric methods, Sakthivel says, “Although most people are moving towards electric and easier cooking, we are accustomed to this traditional style. It also gives better quality and taste, so we continue to cook this way.”
One of their most popular offerings is the cookie.
“What we now call cookies were known at the time as Juicy Berry Biscuits,” he says. “Made with flour, sugar, flour, butter, baking powder and our choice of flavors, they were baked in our brick oven for 10 to 15 minutes.”
Speaking about items that require longer cooking, Sakthivel says bread takes about 30 minutes. “Slow cooking gives them a softer texture and enhances the flavor,” he adds.
Sakthivel keeping puff dough in an old brick oven at his bakery in Madurai. | Photo courtesy: G. statue
The flames in the brick oven burn 24 hours a day, providing heat to the bakery. At the end, the embers are reduced and their long-lasting heat is used to make the day-old bread crisp and golden.
He adds, “Once the shop opens, the rusks are ready – hot and crispy – and then we start preparing the macarons, turning up the heat of the brick oven.”
A pile of hot baked puffs at Sri Muthu Easwaran Bakery and Sweets in Madurai. | Photo courtesy: S. Deiva Abirami
Asked about sales in the early days, he says, “In the evening, we used to pack the items in boxes and take them to the streets on bicycles, and sell them fresh and hot. It was a simple routine, and each item cost between five and ten paise.”
S Ramasamy, a retired teacher, recalls buying coconut and vegetable puffs in the evenings from his father’s bicycle. “The buns and puffs were warm and fresh. It felt like a little treat every day after coming home from school.” Aarav, a college student, came to know about the bakery from a relative and it has now become his favorite shop.
A stack of cream buns at Sri Muthu Easwaran Bakery and Sweets in Madurai. | Photo courtesy: S. Deiva Abirami
Fresh cream cakes were arranged at Sri Muthu Easwaran Bakery & Sweets in Madurai. | Photo courtesy: S. Deiva Abirami
“The taste is unique, and the bakery is very clean. You can really tell the products are made with care.”
Some traditions remain unchanged, providing comfort and authenticity – like the gleaming brick oven at Sri Muthu Easwaran Bakery and Sweets for 54 years.
Located at 2/18, Raja Mill Road, Madurai Main, Madurai, Poondhotam
