During the Islamic holy month of fasting Ramzan, the evenings at Madurai’s Mahabupalayam come alive with people young and old. When the sun goes down, the streets are filled with the smell of fried vadas, crunchy samosas and spicy chicken. Near the Mahaboobpalayam Mosque there are vendors who sell Iftar specials on trays, some of which are fried in hot, steaming oil. The place is busy with people enjoying food and others receiving parcels for home. “In earlier days, we used to break our fast with nombu kanji. It is healthy and easy to digest,” says Abuthahir, who lives in the neighbourhood. “But over time, especially among the younger generation, there has been a shift towards flavourful, fried snacks. Thus these iftar stalls with a variety of items have now become popular.”
A view of the Masjid Mahabupalayam Mosque in Madurai. | Photo courtesy: G. statue
For the past five years, B Thaslima and her husband, G Baicha, have been selling kari vada at Mahabupalayam. As the batch stands over a large wok, frying batch after batch, the snacks disappear almost as quickly. He is fondly known as the ‘Chicken Badshah’ because of the distinctive flavor he brings to his curry vadas.
Yes. Frying crispy golden kari vada at Baicha Mahabupalayam, Madurai. | Photo courtesy: G. statue
crowd favorite
“Our day starts in the morning,” says Thaslima. “We grind the meat finely like mincemeat and then add it to the vada batter. By 4 pm, we open the stall, and by 6 pm we start frying. We sell each piece for ₹5.”
Hot crispy chicken samosas and kari vadas for sale at Mahabupalayam, Madurai. | Photo courtesy: G. statue
Another crowd puller in this area is the minced chicken-stuffed samosa. K Madil Batcha, who has been running the shop with his family for many years, prepares chicken, egg and even noodle samosas.
“My brother and his wife help roll out the samosa sheets, and we keep the fillings ready in advance. The noodle samosa is especially popular.”
Egg and Noodle Samosa is priced at Rs 15, while Chicken Samosa is priced at Rs 20.
A short distance away, opposite the mosque, S Mohammed Yasin draws a steady crowd with its varieties of crunchy chicken. Working with his family, he serves what he calls ‘KFC-style’ chicken, in addition to Hungama Chicken, which is golden and crispy on the outside, while soft, juicy and spicy on the inside.
A short distance away, opposite the mosque, S Mohammed Yasin draws a steady crowd with his crunchy chicken varieties. Working with his family, he serves what he calls “KFC-style” chicken in addition to his popular Hungama Chicken. Golden and crispy on the outside, while soft, juicy and spicy when eaten.
Candy chicken made for iftar snacks at Mahabupalayam. | Photo courtesy: G. statue
Another favorite is candy chicken – lightly sweet at first bite, before the heat increases with every chew. Candy chicken has its sweetness because the chicken is first coated with breadcrumbs. He says, “Our Hungama Chicken has been a huge hit. We first introduced it in Chennai, where it attracted huge crowds. Now that we have brought it to Madurai, the response has been equally enthusiastic.”
While he marinates the chicken, his brother prepares special spices and spice blends, after which everything is freshly fried and served hot.
Golden fried chicken made by Mohammed Yasin at Mahabupalayam, Madurai. | Photo courtesy: G. statue
Sweets soaked in syrup and more
Ramzan Nights Food Park near Simmakkal attracts large crowds in the evening with spicy, crunchy dishes and sweets soaked in syrup.
L Karthik Siva, who organizes the food park, says, “Iftar stalls are quite popular in Chennai and Bengaluru. Now, it has been introduced here by Hotel President in Madurai,” he says. They have Arabic dishes, sweets and drinks.
The stalls open at 5 pm and run till 11 pm with snacks starting at Rs 40. He says that it started just two days ago and the response has been encouraging. “The two-way cheese stick is a favorite, colorful with two layers.”
Hot spicy seekh kebabs are displayed at Ramzan Nights Food Park near Simmakkal, Madurai. | Photo Credit: Special Arrangement
comfort eating
“We also serve authentic Persian Haleem,” he says. “It is prepared with mutton or chicken that is cooked over low heat until it becomes thick, smooth. It has a mildly sweet flavor with mild spices, making it a comforting Iftar dish.”
Display of traditional authentic Haleem at Ramzan Food Night Park near Simmakkal, Madurai. | Photo Credit: Special Arrangement
Another highlight is the seekh kebab. “Made with minced chicken and grilled on skewers, it has a distinctly West Asian touch.” For those with a sweet tooth, the popular Mughlai dessert Shahi Tukda is popular. “It’s rich and indulgent, the perfect way to end a meal,” he says.
Crispy and colorful two-way cheese sticks were displayed at the Ramzan Night Food Park near Simmakkal, Madurai. | Photo Credit: Special Arrangement
