Stepping inside Jatra, the exclusive restaurant of the newly-inaugurated Taj Puri Resort and Spa, it feels as if you are transported into a beautifully crafted time capsule. One that tells the story of Odisha’s culinary heritage while paying homage to its South East Asian ties.
Located at the beach-side Taj Puri Resort & Spa in the temple town of Puri, Odisha, the Jatra celebrates not only food but also a fascinating piece of history: the ancient sea voyages of the Kalinga Dynasty that once connected Odisha to the distant shores of Southeast Asia. This resort overlooking the Bay of Bengal is a blend of heritage and luxury, one of its most treasured features is the Jagannath Puri Yatra Wheel, which was acquired through an auction after the grand annual Rath Utsav. The resort’s architecture takes inspiration from the Kalinga style, with the interiors crafted from traditional Khondalite and laterite stone. Steeped in the artistic heritage of Odisha, the place is adorned with intricate Pattachitra motifs, Ikat weaves and earthy terracotta accents.
mixture of flavors
Biswaroop Chatterjee, executive chef at Jatra restaurant at Taj Puri Resort and Spa in Puri, explains about squid lollipops. , Photo Courtesy: KR Deepak
As I sit on my seat at Jatra, I am drawn towards the decor which is a blend of traditional and contemporary. Above me, the ceiling is decorated with circular fishing baskets, still used by local fishermen in the backwaters. An entire wall displays intricate maps of historical journeys, tracing the ancient routes that connected Odisha with Bali, Sri Lanka and beyond during the famous Bali voyage some 2,000 years ago.
A view of Jatra Restaurant at Taj Puri Resort and Spa in Puri. , Photo Credit: Special Arrangement
Curated by Rupali Mohanty, whose vision brought the Taj Group to Puri, and Chef Sabyasachi Gorai, her partner in culinary exploration since her Institute of Hotel Management Kolkata days, Jatra’s menu is a symphony of stories.
I start my culinary journey with steamed Manda Pitha Dumplings. Unlike the traditional sweet version filled with coconut and jaggery, here Executive Chef Biswaroop Chatterjee has given it a savory flavor of soy-based meat, lemongrass and kaffir lemon. The texture is soft, while the lemon-like color adds brightness to the bite.
Squid lollipop displayed at Jatra Restaurant at Taj Puri Resort and Spa in Puri. , Photo Courtesy: KR Deepak
comes next Ayam GorengAn Indonesian-Malaysian fried chicken dish that has been reimagined to give it an interesting flavour. It is served wrapped in flattened rice, with bean paste dip. This rendition is a visual homage to the palm trees that line the coastline of Odisha, making it almost too beautiful to eat. then comes the chicken Patra PodaServed wrapped in a sal leaf, the wood-fired chicken is seasoned with a delicious spice blend, each piece balanced with a cool cucumber and sweet potato mash,
Black and white chicken dumplings follow. These curry chicken fritters are a perfect blend between Indian heat and Southeast Asian spice. Each bite is delicate yet packed with flavor, a reminder of how blurred the boundaries are when it comes to good food.
For the main course, I try khmer sea bass amokA Cambodian classic brought to life with lemongrass, basil, bird’s eye chilli, coconut milk, ginger-garlic paste, a little malt vinegar and sesame seeds. The sea bass is steamed to tender perfection, and the broth is heady and fragrant.
Jackfruit Kasa Bao displayed at Jatra Restaurant at Taj Puri Resort and Spa in Puri. , Photo Courtesy: KR Deepak
i also taste jackfruit Casa BaoHere, soft jackfruit is slow cooked with spices and stuffed into pillowy bao buns, topped with vadi chura (crushed lentil fritters) and tangy mango chutney, It’s a fun, earthy dish, although I miss its meaty flavor,
Chatu Mulligatouni Stew feels like a warm embrace. It features mushrooms and tofu, served with delicate string hoppers. A hearty but light, spicy stew.
Chenapoda Cheesecake displayed at Jatra Restaurant at Taj Puri Resort and Spa in Puri. , Photo Courtesy: KR Deepak
How can I go on without a sweet ending? is the first coffee textureCelebration of Koraput Coffee of Odisha. Crisp, creamy and intense all together, this is an ode to the bean. And then, in a twist on tradition, Chenapoda Cheesecake. Odisha’s rustic caramelized flavors are popular Chenapoda Reimagined as a silky, delicate cheesecake. It’s familiar yet new, the perfect metaphor for my experience at Jatra. Soon, Jatra will unveil a cocktail bar and menu, adding another layer to its evolving tale of taste and storytelling.
Open for dinner at Taj Puri Resort & Spa,
(The author was in Puri on the invitation of Taj Puri Resort & Spa).
