Born and raised in Singapore, 69-year-old chef Devagi Sammugam is a Tamil who is connected to her roots through the rich aromatic world of spices. In Chennai to organize Ayalagam, a food festival celebrating Tamil flavors from Singapore and Malaysia, Devagi shares her culinary journey and how she blends tradition with innovation.
“The title struck me deeply and I immediately connected with the subject,” she says with a smile. Her story begins with her father Chandrakasan, who moved to Singapore from Mayavaram in Tamil Nadu. He worked in a Tamil newspaper and later married Anjalai, whose mother, Nagammal, was raised in Indonesia. “So I was exposed to Southeast Asian culinary cultures early in life,” says Devaggi.
Thenga Pal Sadham Pottalam | Photo Credit: Special Arrangement
“We have four major ethnic groups in Singapore, Chinese, Malay, Indian and others. So we grew up exposed to spices from across Asia,” she says. Over time, these influences began to appear in Tamil cooking. “For example, we now use soy sauce in mutton and fish dishes and add Sichuan pepper to add heat.”
Known for her creative take on traditional food, Devaggi is not afraid to experiment. “I prepare the vada dough and cook it in a waffle maker to make vada waffles. I compress the thengapal sadham into a cake-like shape and overlay it with karuvadu kari around it,” she says, showing how Tamil food can be re-imagined without losing its soul.
Parotta with accompaniments Photo Credit: Special Arrangement
Chef Devaggi explains that while many spices are shared across Asian cuisines, kalpasi (black stone flower, dry, brittle and dark-coloured lichen), is uniquely South Indian. “It is particularly prominent in Chettinad cuisine and imparts a deep, intense, smoky flavor that is difficult to replicate,” she says. Another favorite is Thalippu Vadgam, a traditional spice mixture made from sun-dried spices and aromatics and onions. “It adds a distinctive flavor to kulambu and thokku, and I use it creatively in dips and chutneys to highlight its versatility. Among all the spices she works with, mustard holds a special place. “It is my favorite because it transforms a dish the moment we add it to the hot oil.”
Our meal at Sangamitraai begins with six dips accompanied by crispy rice wafers. Each dip displayed a unique flavor profile, but the standout was the curry leaf aioli, which lingered on the palate. Coming in second place is the calamansi chili sauce, which provides a spicy flavor due to the sourness of the calamansi, a Southeast Asian variety of lemon. With our palates awakened by this array of flavours, we are served a refreshing pudalangai salad. Raw gourds are mixed with cherry tomatoes and julienned carrots, tossed in a light dressing of lemon juice and ginger juice and salt, and finished with a sprinkle of fresh coconut flakes.
Sweets inspired by Tamil and Asian cuisine. Photo Credit: Special Arrangement
Thenga Sadham Pottalam consists of lightly spiced coconut milk rice carefully wrapped in banana leaf with chicken sambal, sweet and sour chutney, fried bitter gourd, fried chicken and mutton chukka. The pottalam (meaning package) is then tied with a string and cooked on a pan, allowing the flavors to meld together. As soon as we open the leaf parcel, a rich aroma of coconut milk and ghee starts wafting. The interplay of bitter, sweet, sour and spicy elements creates a harmonious and visually stunning dish. It’s best enjoyed in the traditional way, with your fingers, without any cutlery.
Next we are served Vendhaya Chicken prepared by Chef Devaggi. “No one would think of adding a handful of roasted fenugreek seeds to a semi-gravy chicken dish,” she says with a smile, “The bitter and nutty flavor of fenugreek goes well with a chicken dish made in the South Indian style.” And, he is right. The roasted fenugreek added a deep, aromatic bitterness that matched the South Indian-style chicken perfectly.
Chef Devaggi and Chef Murthy Photo Credit: Special Arrangement
Deeply impressed with the Pottalam experience, we head for dessert: Pandan Idiyappam with Maravalli Kizhangu (Tapioca) Halwa and Vaazhai Paazham Sauce. While both are interesting, the first one really stands out. Tapioca pudding is comforting and nostalgic. Ripe tapioca is grated, mixed with ghee and aromatic spices, then gently steamed and shaped into round cutlets. Served hot with fresh coconut flakes, it tastes delicious.
With Ayalgam, Chef Devaggi not only brings the taste of his heritage to Chennai, but also shows how tradition can evolve without being lost.
At Sangamitraai Restaurant, Feathers Hotel. Till June 8th. lunch and dinner. Vegetarian (₹2,500) and Non-Vegetarian (₹3,000). There are five rotating menus. For reservations, call 7823977825
