I have reached that age when everything is too noisy. Bars, concerts, and the inevitably bickering family sitting next to me at a restaurant. So, I get curious when I hear whispers about a speakeasy being launched in Chennai. Especially since – for once – it’s being catered towards that crowd, with tequila shots, packed dance floors and techno blaring all night long.
Madras Cocktail Company – called Madco for short – is located on a side street and our first challenge was to find it. Once we do, we open a heavy door to reveal a cozy space lit by soft buttery lights on the ceiling and bordered by a sleek bar.
“As an almost 40-year-old man, I have reached the stage where I want a place where I can sit, relax and talk. Right now, in Chennai we either have family bars restaurants or busy nightclubs,” says Santosh Zakaria Abraham, managing partner, Madco. Neither is Madco.
A Negroni with Orange Peel Photo Credit: Special Arrangement
As their head bartenders, Vishal and Rohit Rajput, make alcoholic cocktails, one of the waiters places a plate of crispy prawn heads fried in ghee in front of us. More savory dishes are a difficult choice – it will appeal only to a niche audience. Santosh shrugs, “It’s fine. We think it’s delicious.”
Choosing a challenging route is only possible if you’re not targeting a mass audience, and Madco is intentionally small, with space for only 50 people. Founding partner RVS Kiran, who has spent over a decade in the hotel industry, says they are constantly looking for ways to innovate. “We plan to introduce new themes and ideas regularly, keeping it fresh for our guests! Moving forward, expect to also have lots of collaborations with the best bars and chefs from across Asia…” he says
“We are a community bar, not a commercial bar,” says Santosh, adding that he plans to open for only 25 people in the initial weeks.
A Fiery Sapphire with Purple Cabbage Infused Vodka Photo Credit: Special Arrangement
For that reason, the menu and location are still a work in progress: over the past month friends and family have been coming up with suggestions that are being tested by the young team. Although Vishal and Rohit are only 20 years old, they have already worked in several bars, and are comfortable enough with modern mixology techniques such as clarification, fat washing and fermentation to use them judiciously, while still retaining the charm of classic cocktails.
With a volume of 60 ml, the drinks are alcoholic and largely spirits forward, although there are also fun options like a sweet tiki cocktail called the Havana Banana, made with white rum, coconut rum and house-made banana syrup, served in an owl-shaped glass, or the Lame Duck, made with Scotch whiskey, orange and honey, and served in a yellow duck mug.
Since infusions, cordials and syrups are made in-house, using methods such as sous vide, fermentation and dehydration, preparation begins a day in advance. “We also make the cocktails in batches, so your first drink and last drink of the night will be the same, no matter how busy the bar is,” says Santosh.
Mallipoo Spritz served with Chinese-ish chili chicken. Photo Credit: Special Arrangement
During a hazy evening, I try an Old Fashioned, a dark, spicy tea mixed with bourbon and sweetened with cinnamon. Followed by the Spicy Picante, colored purple with cabbage-infused vodka and spiked with jalapeño for an extra kick. There’s also a Mallipoo Spritz, a nod to Chennai, made with a harmonious blend of tequila and jasmine. They have all the classics from the Negroni to the Whiskey Sour.
Try their powerful espresso martinis, inspired by the eponymous Café Rouge next door, which is run by the same team. If you insist on being attentive, there is also a regular alcohol menu with a selection of wines and spirits. There is no beer on tap, but there will be some bottled options.
Culinary consultant Matangi Kumar arrives at the table bearing plates of puffed-up fingers of brioche with piles of truffle oil scented mushrooms. The menu is imaginative but realistic, offering small plates of food that go well with wine: chicken pakodas, cheesling jhalmuri dressed with mustard oil, cheese toast and crunchy spring rolls filled with haleem.
We also try their five-spice chicken wrapped in garlic chili, eggs on toast and fried rice with edamame, vegetables and pickle oil. It’s thoughtful fusion, a merging of flavors that work together rather than simply creating Instagrammable-food. (Which is honestly a relief, I can’t have any more Pull Up Cakes or Korean Cheese Buns.)
Old-fashioned agate served with gongura tempura. Photo Credit: Special Arrangement
This is food for adults.
For older people, glitches will be inevitable at this youth bar. The menu is still being tweaked, and will continue to change over the next few months. But Madco is an interesting experiment, and its greatest strength is perhaps its awareness of its flaws: and its declaration that they are ready to change.
DMmadco_Chennai on Instagram for reservations and directions. Open from 5 pm onwards. Remains closed on Mondays. Around ₹3,500 for two people
