Apple Milk, Madurai
Apple compote or apple milk, an ice cream-like dessert served at Amsavalli Bhavan in Madurai. , Photo courtesy: G. statue
Not much has changed at Amsavalli Bhavan on East Veli Street in Madurai since it was opened 75 years ago. The hand-painted signboards, the mosaic floors, a narrow flight of stairs leading to the dimly lit air-conditioned dining room above… In the 1970s, a new dish was added to its strictly non-vegetarian menu: apple compote, popularly known as apple milk or apple ice cream. Since then, it has become a ritual for those who eat Seeraga Samba Biryani followed by a cup of frozen dessert.
“My grandfather Gopal Pillai came up with this recipe after a trip to Goa,” says third-generation owner G Arunraj. “After much trial and error, Gopal arrived at the current version. Apple Milk Amsavalli is Amsavalli’s version of vanilla ice cream served with apple pieces.
The dessert consists of plain milk, which is allowed to boil with sugar for several hours, after which vanilla flavoring is added. It is frozen and served with chopped apples. The result is a sweet, creamy, milky concoction made with crunchy cubes of apples.
“We make only small batches every day, which are sold out by 7 pm,” says Arunraj, who adds that he has many “die-hardfans” for the frozen dessert. “They won’t hesitate to inform us if we run out of it,” he says with a laugh, adding that he sometimes gets requests from regular customers to keep a cup or two aside.
Arunraj says many political leaders have enjoyed his apple concoction. “I heard that my grandfather had offered it to late Prime Minister Indira Gandhi when she came to Madurai on an official visit,” he recalls.
Located at 42, East Welly Street, Madurai. Call 0452 2620117.
Ice Cream with Jelly, Nagercoil
Warren’s Vanilla Ice Cream with Jelly Photo Credit: Special Arrangement
On August 15, 1947, when the country woke up to the news of its independence from the British, a small ice cream shop was being inaugurated in a town in Tamil Nadu. The owner Parameswaran was unaware of how important that day was. Today, the main store of Warren’s Ice Cream is still located at the same location on Balamore Road in Nagercoil. “There was one in the neighborhood Agraharam Behind this, and whoever had a radio, someone heard that India had gained independence on our Independence Day,” says Babu Arunachalam, Parameswaran’s grandson.
The Warrens on Balamore Road in Nagercoil. Photo Credit: Special Arrangement
Warren’s is known for its jelly with ice cream, its signature dessert which has been a constant on its menu since 1947. “Grandfather initially sold a variety of cold drinks like sherbet that he made at home,” says Babu. The British who visited the Salvation Army Catherine Booth Hospital (CBH), where Parameswaran’s shop was located, enjoyed his drinks. “He suggested she also make ice cream and even helped her import an ice cream machine,” says Babu.
At the Warrens, while the rest of the flavors are sourced from outside, they make their own mixed fruit jellies and vanilla ice cream. “When he started, grandfather used to sell a cup for 25 paise,” says the 52-year-old, adding that today, the same costs ₹60, while his vanilla ice cream costs ₹30 per scoop. People from the city, who have settled elsewhere for work, make sure to stop by to have a cup of jelly with ice cream whenever they visit.
“Our grandfathers also bring their grandchildren and remember the days when they ate ice cream here in their youth,” says Babu. Warren’s has two branches in Nagercoil, and Babu says he plans to expand to other parts of Tamil Nadu. The name is a short form of Parameswaran, which was easy to pronounce for his first customers, the British.
Located at Balamore Road, 92A/115, Tower Junction, Nagercoil. Call 9443375014
Jigarthanda, Madurai
Madurai’s popular Jigarthanda, has been in existence since 1977, and was created by Sheikh Meeran, who settled in Madurai from his hometown Thoothukudi. , Photo courtesy: G. statue
The origins of this now ubiquitous ice cream-based dessert can be traced to a corner shop in Keelavasal, Madurai. It all started as an ice cream venture in the Sheikh Meeran family in the 1960s. Meeran had come to Madurai from Arampannai village in Thoothukudi to earn a living. “His family was large and everyone, including his two sisters and four brothers, would attend,” recalls Mohammed Rabik, a relative.
“He started going door to door selling homemade ice cream the one with spit,” Rabic says. “He will serve it on a leaf.” Vazha Mattai (Banana stem fiber).” Meeran’s venture was driven by necessity. “His family had to struggle to get three meals a day,” says the 37-year-old. He put in everything he had to make the ice cream business a success. Gradually people started paying attention to him.
This sweet has been in existence since 1977, and was created by Sheikh Meeran, who settled in Madurai from his hometown Thoothukudi.. Photo,. G/The Hindu. , Photo courtesy: G. statue
Meeran graduated from door-to-door selling to pushcart sales and finally opened his own shop in 1977. He also prepared Nannari syrup himself and kept it soaked. Kadal Pasi (Agar Agar) which he sometimes added as a topping to his ice cream. “One evening, when there was particularly high demand, he threw away everything he had: ice cream, Kadal Pasiand Nannari syrup and it was served to the customers,” Rabic recalls.
“It was an instant hit.” Miran realized he had arrived at something special, and worked on it for six months. Thus, Jigarthanda was born, meaning, ,He who cools the heart., ,
Rabik says 90% of Jigarthanda consists of milk, which he sources from villages near Madurai. Everything is made in-house, including the ice cream and basundi toppings. Jigarthanda has become synonymous with Madurai, something Meeran could never have imagined.
Located at 94, East Marratt Street Corner, Madurai. Call 9150099971/72
Mango Ice Cream, Chennai
The recipe for Mango Ice Cream belongs to the founder Kunhiraman, who started a small shop in Madras in the 1920s. , Photo courtesy: B. Jothi Ramalingam
C Kunhiraman General Stores in Royapuram sells arguably the best mango ice cream in Chennai. To purchase a cup one must first collect a token from the store, which makes the experience more engaging. Mango Ice Cream at Kunhiraman is the result of the founder’s research and perseverance.
“It was launched in 1953,” says Akhilesh Baskar, 46, Kunhiraman’s grandson. There were a lot of Anglo-Indian families in Royapuram at that time, says Akhilesh, who suggested that his grandfather try making ice cream. “He came to Madras from Calicut in the 1920s and started a small shop,” says Akhilesh. “He later developed it into a grocery store, selling soda and cold drinks on the side.”
C. Kunhiraman General Stores in Royapuram has been selling home-made mango ice cream since 1953. Photo courtesy: B. Jothi Ramalingam
Kunhiraman began researching ice cream based on the ideas of the British and Anglo-Indians. “But before he could start making them, he passed away. Two years later his staff created ice cream in his memory.” The grocery store has also been selling grape juice since 1958, and in the past year Akhilesh has also added chocolate milk and pistachio milk. Kunhiraman’s mango ice cream initially cost less than a penny, and was served in thick glass bowls. However, today bowls have been replaced by disposable ones.
“Most of our customers are from south and central Chennai,” says Akhilesh, who plans to expand his brand. “I hope to sell my ice creams in restaurants in South Chennai soon,” he says. But Kunhiraman’s experience will be complete only when the ice creams are in front of his ancient grocery shop, where it all began.
Located at N Terminus Road, Chetty Thottam, Royapuram. Call 044 25904889.
