A framed front page of a major daily from the day India gained independence, a grandmother’s old wooden comb, a centuries-old sword – for a minute, I’d mistake it for someone’s house. But this is Ek Punjab, a fine dining restaurant from Rajan and Deepika Sethi of Bright Hospitality in the heart of Connaught Place, New Delhi.
As I turn around, Rajan explains that the restaurant is a tribute to his ancestors who were born in pre-Partition Punjab. He says, “My parents and grandparents grew up on the other side of Punjab – in Rawalpindi and Chakwal. So, I thought let’s open a place that serves the food of undivided Punjab that many have forgotten.”
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Interior parts of Punjab. Photo Credit: Special Arrangement
Ikk Punjab is designed to resemble an army veteran’s home – Rajan’s grandfather was in the Indian Army. The checkered floors and old-fashioned fans are reminiscent of her grandparents’ home. Dark mahogany chairs contrast with rattan sofas, a floor-to-ceiling cabinet with books and artworks rises up with a wooden ladder that gives it a cozy, living room-style touch. “We want to call it home and serve people food in a way that makes them forget they’re in a restaurant,” says Rajan.
A dimly lit bar on the first floor has the feel of an old army club. Beautiful candle holders on the tables provide a warm glow to the area. Only bar nibbles and cocktails will be served on this floor once its owners receive a liquor license.
untold stories
Food in Punjab Photo Credit: Special Arrangement
Like the location, the stories reach out to the food, focusing on the cuisine of the other side of Punjab, now in Pakistan. Chef Naresh Kotwal is behind this show. Some recipes have been passed down for generations, some derived from handwritten notes while others have been researched from books. Rajan says that he has a friend in Pakistan who gave him guidance about food.
So, it’s no surprise that the usual chicken tikkas and kebabs make way for more interesting starters, like the Peshawari Charsi Tikka, which has its origins in a small shop called Nisar Charsi Tikka in Peshawar’s Namak Mandi. This mutton kebab wrapped in kidney fat was once prepared by a man called Nisar Khan – he is called ‘Charsi ke Tikka’ in Pakistan because, as the stories go, he used to hashish (Hashish).
Double Kebab | Photo Credit: Special Arrangement
Then we are served two more delicious kebabs – Chapli and Dora Kebab. Extremely popular in Pakistan, ‘Chapli’, meaning palm, takes its name from the process of pressing the mutton mince in the hand to soften and flatten it. The tomatoes served with it help cut the heavy spices. Dora Kebab is different from any kebab I’ve ever eaten – it’s a mutton seekh wrapped over a chicken seekh kebab. The juices from the mutton flow into the chicken, keeping the kebab soft and tender. Dohara means double, hence the name.
One of the stars here is the Lahori Saji, a whole chicken cooked on a rotisserie with whole spices. Sajji is a tribal dish from Balochistan, where chicken stuffed with potatoes and rice is cooked throughout the day and traditionally eaten as a one-pot meal. This version was prepared from hung curd. The chef cuts it with scissors and serves it.
from the royal court
Gosht Beliram Photo Credit: Special Arrangement
For the mains, I had a ton of dishes. Gosht Beliram, a juicy mutton curry originates from the court of Maharaja Ranjit Singh, the founder of the Sikh Empire in the 19th century. He was so impressed by his khansama (chef)’s creation that he named the dish after him.
Lahori Chikkad Chole (chickpeas), a specialty of Lahore where chickpeas are cooked with just salt and ginger, probably the same way they were cooked in village homes. It is served with a salad made of onions, cucumbers and tomatoes and a light yogurt sauce, but I like to eat it without any additional dishes because then its original taste remains intact. Then there’s Mardan Murgh, chicken cooked in milk and cashew nuts, a recipe that originates from Awadh.
Maththi Chole Photo Credit: Special Arrangement
This side of Punjab has also not been forgotten. One of the appetizers comes from the streets of Amritsar – Matthi Chole, a delicious flaky Matthi topped with spicy chickpeas, onions, sev and pomegranate and served with tamarind chutney. This is a favorite of Rajan’s from his childhood days when leftover chickpeas were eaten as a crunchy snack by placing them on top of mathhi – I used to love it too.
And some of the classics remain – butter chicken features heavily on the menu and this is one of the best versions of this dish I’ve eaten in the city. Thankfully, it’s actually not on the sweet side.
As soon as I look at the starters and main dishes, I realize that dining here isn’t just a meal – it’s recreating a piece of history.
K-13 at Outer Circle, Connaught Place; from noon to 3 pm and from 7 pm to 11.30 pm; Meal for two costs ₹2,500 plus taxes
